CYPR – miejsce narodzin Afrodyty – to niewielka wyspa o powierzchni zaledwie 9251 km², którą nie wiem dlaczego, ale ciągle pomijałam w swoich planach.. myślę, że spokojnie można tu przyjechać na dwa tygodnie i człowiek na pewno nie będzie się nudził. My mieliśmy tylko tydzień, zobaczyliśmy niewiele, za to spędziliśmy cudownie czas zwiedzając tą wyspę na rowerze.. Ponoć u jego wybrzeży narodziła się grecka bogini Afrodyta i choć tym razem nie odwiedziłam miejsca gdzie to się podobno wydarzyło, to wiem, że tutaj wrócę.. to miejsce zauroczyło mnie! Jej atrakcje są niezwykłe, a ja zobaczyłam zbyt mało, ale tak chcieliśmy, na spokojnie spędzić tutaj czas. No to w drogę, zabieram moją ulubioną torbę i jedziemy..

Afrodyta – w mitologii greckiej bogini miłości, piękna, kwiatów, pożądania i płodności, najbardziej urodziwa z bogiń antycznych mitów, a jej rzymską odpowiedniczką była Wenus. Są różne wersje mówiące o jej pochodzeniu, niemniej w każdej z nich pojawia się Cypr jako miejsce jej narodzin, który stał się jej ulubionym miejscem. A to czy powstała z połączenia odciętych sierpem genitalii Uranosa i białej piany czy była córką Zeusa i Diony czy Uranosa i Hemery, a może córką tytanów Okeanosa i Tetydy ma teraz jakieś znaczenie? Z pewnością informacja, że u wybrzeży Cypru się narodziła nadaje tej wyspie niezwykłej tajemniczości. Jej atrybutami była piana, gołąb, mirt, lustro, delfin, ale i złote jabłko – które jak mówi legenda stało się jabłkiem niezgody i doprowadziło do wojny trojańskiej. Często Afrodyta ze względu na swoje pochodzenie była nazywana Cyprianką, była matką Boga Miłości EROSA oraz żoną ponoć najbrzydszego z Bogów HEFAJSTOSA..

.. ale nie będę się teraz rozpisywać na temat mitologii greckiej (którą uwielbiam od dzieciństwa!), ale zachęcam, że jeżeli wybierasz się do Grecji to warto by było troszkę ją poznać.. wówczas zwiedzanie różnych miejsc jest zupełnie inne….

Ta wyspa z pewnością zachwyci Was licznymi starożytnymi ruinami i stanowiskami archeologicznymi, pięknymi plażami, zabytkowymi wioskami, malowniczymi górami i tętniącymi życiem miastami. Jest idealnym miejscem na wypoczynek zarówno dla miłośników historii, kultury, natury jak i błogiego lenistwa. I właśnie My wybraliśmy to ostatnie – choć nie do końca było to lenistwo, ponieważ już po pierwszym dniu zdecydowaliśmy się, że nie będziemy nigdzie pędzić, że nie wypożyczymy auta ani żadnego skutera czy quada, tylko weźmiemy rowery i co nam się uda dzięki nim zobaczyć, to się po prostu uda. Teraz z perspektywy czasu widzę, że była to bardzo dobra decyzja.. a dlaczego? Zapraszam na dalszą część.. może i Ciebie zainspiruję choć troszkę do takiej formy zwiedzania. Szczerze, to ja teraz kiedy to piszę, 2 dni od powrotu z Cypru, bardzo chętnie wróciłabym tam z powrotem..

Tym razem wykupiliśmy loty tanimi liniami  – szczerze to bardzo nie lubię nimi latać i to nie chodzi o komfort lotu, ale choćby o zakup samych biletów, zawsze mam przy tym problemy, bo albo coś się nie doda, albo w jakimś momencie zawiesi, albo te odprawy online.. no nie lubię ich i już. Ale zbyt dużego wyboru tutaj nie mieliśmy. Po zakupie lotów zajęliśmy się noclegami. Zdecydowaliśmy się na lot do Larnaki, a jako bazę noclegową wybraliśmy Ayia Napa – ponoć są tutaj najpiękniejsze plaże i faktycznie są piękne! Do tego pobyt podzieliliśmy sobie na dwa hotele. Pierwszy bardziej na zachodzie i wybraliśmy Nissi Park Hotel – tuż przy naprawdę pięknej plaży Nissi Beach, a drugi bardziej w centrum Sunprime.

Po przylocie w nocy dzięki Bogu zabukowaliśmy sobie transfer z lotniska do pierwszego hotelu za niecałe 130zł za 2 osoby, na stronie https://www.shuttledirect.com/pl/lotnisko/lca.html  – Ayia Napa jest ok. 60km od lotniska w Larnace, a my wylądowaliśmy o godz. 2:15 w nocy – i to był bardzo dobry pomysł, ponieważ wiele osób, które z nami leciały samolotem czekało do rana na lotnisku na pierwszy autobus.. Koszt taksówki to ok. 60 euro w jedną stronę. Około godziny 4:00 nad ranem byliśmy już w łóżkach.

Rano śniadanie i zaczęliśmy zwiedzanie. Był to koniec października i w ogóle nie wiedziałam czego mogę się tutaj spodziewać, czy będzie na tyle ciepło żeby można było pływać w morzu? Czy będzie można popluskać się w basenie? Będzie deszczowo i pochmurnie czy wiosennie, a może będzie gorąco i upalnie? Trochę poczytałam na temat Cypru, zajrzałam na prognozę pogody, ale na wyspach te prognozy często się nie sprawdzają, więc byłam bardzo mile zaskoczona, jak pierwszego poranka mogłam ubrać krótkie spodenki i t-shirt, a nawet strój kąpielowy i pływałam w morzu.

Pierwszy dzień zleciał nam na poznawaniu okolicy.. nocny lot trochę nas wyczerpał więc dzień spędziliśmy bardzo spokojnie, pływając w basenie, chodząc po plaży i pluskając się w morskiej wodzie oraz objadając bougatsą i pijąc pyszną cypryjską kawę.

Tego też dnia zaszliśmy do wypożyczalni samochodów i rowerów by zasięgnąć informacji i na drugi dzień z rana mieliśmy już wypożyczone rowery. Koszt wypożyczenia zaczynał się od 10 euro za rower za dzień, ale im więcej dni tym wychodziło taniej i w końcu za 22 euro za jeden wypożyczyliśmy 2 rowery na 5 dni.

To był wspaniały pomysł! Zaraz też po śniadaniu, ubrana w strój kąpielowy ruszyłam z mężem na pierwszą przejażdżkę. Miała być krótka.. ale było tak cudownie, że jechaliśmy i jechaliśmy. Tego dnia zwiedziliśmy całą zachodnią część Ayia Napa, jadąc Nissi Ave, potem Agia Thekla aż do miejscowości Agia Thekla i tam postanowiliśmy pokąpać się w morzu i trafiliśmy na bardzo spokojną plażę Rocky Beach przy samym kościele Agia Thekla Chapel, gdzie było niewiele ludzi, za to woda i piasek doskonały.

Po krótkim postoju, plażowaniu zaczęliśmy wracać z powrotem, ale już tym razem nadmorską ścieżką, która mniej więcej zaczyna się na wysokości Makronissos Beach tuż za przystanią Ayia Napa Marina i ciągnie wzdłuż wybrzeża aż po Cape Greco w drugą stronę. Postanowiliśmy przejechać ją całą, oczywiście nie jednego dnia i nie na szybko, ale delektując się kąpielami i widokami. Naprawdę polecam tą ścieżkę! Jest ona głównie dla pieszych i absolutnie nic oprócz rowerów po niej nie jeździ. Są momenty, że trzeba rower przeprowadzić, są na niej schody, a często kończy się przy plaży i również rower trzeba przeprowadzić za plażę, ale w ogóle nie jest to kłopotliwe. Jadąc mijaliśmy wiele osób, które szły, biegły, sporo rodzin z dziećmi – to taki deptak nie-deptak nad samym brzegiem morza.

Jak już minęliśmy Makronissos Beach, na której zatrzymaliśmy się na obiad oraz krótkie znowu pływanie w morzu, to kolejny przystanek był na plaży Mikri Landa Beach – tutaj widać wiele miejsc gdzie prawdopodobnie urządzają sobie pikniki miejscowi.. dalej była Landa Beach już ze sporą liczbą turystów, przez którą musieliśmy rowery przeprowadzić, a dalej zaczyna się trochę dziczy z parkiem i ścieżka prowadzi prosto na Latchi Adams Beach tuż przy Orthodox Church of St. Andrew i przy samym wielkim hotelu Adams i tutaj zastał nas już zachód słońca………. To była cudowna wycieczka!

Teraz do hotelu, kąpiel, kolacja i.. idziemy trochę imprezować. Nie wiem czy to dlatego, że to była już końcówka sezonu, czy może w tej części Ayia Napa tak po prostu jest, ale imprez brak! Wszystkie knajpki wieczorem nad morzem były zamknięte, tak samo w mieście kończyły pracę około 20-21:00 i nastawała kompletna cisza. Jedynie w tych dużych hotelach było słychać jakąś muzykę, więc tam poszliśmy.. Ubawiliśmy się na maksa! Z Rosjanami z Petersburga, którzy przyjechali szósty raz do tego samego hotelu. Nie chciałam zarywać całej nocy, żeby potem nie tracić całego dnia więc około pierwszej w nocy wróciliśmy do siebie. Kolejny dzień był ostatnim w tym hotelu, a rano przenosimy się bliżej centrum..

Zaraz po śniadaniu, niespiesznie spakowaliśmy się i podjechaliśmy miejscowym autobusem 3 czy 4 przystanki w stronę centrum. Aha, zapomniałam dodać, że poprzedniego dnia wieczorem pojechaliśmy jeszcze rowerami do nowego hotelu, tam je zostawiliśmy i wróciliśmy lokalnym autobusem z powrotem. Tak więc tego dnia, po dojechaniu do nowego hotelu nasze rowery już na nas czekały.. Hotel okazał się przesuper! Szybkie rozpakowanie, chwila przy basenie i ruszamy dalej rowerami. Nie będę się teraz rozpisywać dzień po dniu, ale przejechaliśmy wszerz i wzdłuż całą trasę brzegiem morza. Było cudownie………..

Plaża Nissi, Neophytos A. Poullou memorial gdzie akurat trafiliśmy na rozpalanie ogniska.. piękna zatoczka przy hotelu Pavlo napa Beach, który pierwotnie chcieliśmy sobie wziąć na cały pobyt i chyba dobrze, że nie wzięliśmy, bo przy tej plaży woda bardzo płytka, a dno kamieniste, za to w tawernie podają przepyszną kawę!

Potem jadąc dalej na wschód mijamy Musan Museum of Underwater z przepięknym wzgórzem i pomnikiem mężczyzny patrzącego w dal oraz podwodnym muzeum, które ogląda się pływając w maskach – mąż był, pływał i widział.. ja widziałam takie cudo na Grenadzie na Karaibach, a tutaj jakoś nie miałam ochoty płynąć – było to dość daleko od brzegu, a w dniu w którym tu byliśmy było dość wietrznie i pochmurno.. pływałam sobie jedynie przy brzegu.

Potem ścieżka biegnie spokojnie dość długo do Katsarka Beach, potem jest jeszcze Loukkos Tou Mandi Beach i kończy się przy Ayia Napa Promenade i dojechaliśmy do Ayia Napa Marina – tu jedliśmy fantastyczny obiad w Vassos (Psarolimano) Fish Tavern – http://vassosfishtavern.com/ – zarówno lokalizacja jak i jedzenie obłędne! Boże.. dwa dni byłam najedzona po 500 gramowej porcji mięsa u nich – a jak uda Wam się tam kiedyś trafić, to koniecznie spróbujcie ich sosu na bazie Jack-a Daniels-a, no po prostu niebo w gębie! Mąż wziął sobie owoce morza, do tego wzięliśmy jeszcze multum przystawek, a na koniec całkowicie za darmo, już po wystawieniu rachunku, dostaliśmy lody! Też chyba własnej roboty, bo były przepyszne!

Hotele wzięliśmy sobie: pierwszy tylko ze śniadaniem, a drugi ze śniadaniami i obiadokolacjami. Każda opcja tu jest dobra, nawet gdybyśmy wzięli zupełnie bez niczego – to na pewno głodni byśmy nie chodzili. Ja zajadałam się cały czas ich bougatsą – to takie francuskie ciasto z serem feta i szpinakiem oraz souvlakami – to są dania, które pamiętam z dzieciństwa i z tymi czasami mi się kojarzą, jak jeździłam do Grecji.. a znalazłam je w piekarni czynnej 24 godziny na dobę o nazwie Zorbas –  https://www.zorbas.com.cy/ – tylko wejdźcie i zobaczcie to menu! Mi od razu ślinka leci.. Na ich stronie znajdziecie też kilka fajnych przepisów, na kurczaka a la creme, na kolokasi z sosem pomidorowym, na cukinię z jajkiem, na komosę ryżową z warzywami – koniecznie zajrzyjcie do nich jak będziecie na Cyprze..

Dalej dróżka ciągnie się przez Limanaki Beach – ale tutaj niestety rowerem ciężko przejechać więc wybraliśmy ulicę i tak Kryou Nerou dojechaliśmy aż do Glyki Nero Beach, gdzie znowu można było w miarę spokojnie jechać nadmorską ścieżką, choć z utrudnieniami. Za to na samym wzgórzu znajduje się Sculpture Park z parkiem rzeźby – ciekawe miejsce, warte zwiedzenia oraz kolejna fajna tawerna, gdzie też jednego dnia jedliśmy obiad – Evinos Tawerna – nie wiem czy wszędzie na Cyprze, ale tam gdzie trafiałam to serwowali mi zawsze przepyszną kawę! Zamawiałam Greek Coffee bez cukru – trochę się dziwili, że bez cukru, ale nie lubię słodkiej..

Jadąc dalej Kryou Nerou dojedziemy do brzegu i tam……….. znaczy tu……… jest Love Bridge, czyli MOST MIŁOŚCI – MOST ZAKOCHANYCH! Nie widać go jak jedzie się samochodem. Wiele osób z którymi rozmawiałam nie mogli tu trafić. Jadąc rowerem zobaczycie o wiele więcej, naprawdę polecam tą formę wypoczynku, a jak tylko mi się uda, to spróbuję zmontować filmik właśnie o tym jak wygląda zwiedzanie Cypru, a w sumie małego jego kawałeczka z pozycji roweru – to jest inna inszość, ale fajna bardzo. Aha, zapomniałam jeszcze, że pomiędzy Love Bridge, a Glyki Nero Beach jest Secret SeaCaves – jaskinie, które również jadąc samochodem w życiu nie zobaczycie.

Jedziemy dalej ścieżką na wschód i mijamy przepiękny Wodden Bridge with love locks – czyli mały drewniany mostek nad chyba wyschniętą rzeką z mnóstwem przypiętych kłódek zakochanych, taki jak nasz we Wrocławiu, ale o wiele mniejszy..

Można jechać cały czas ulicą Kryou Nerou, ale ja polecam bardzo jechać rowerem czy iść pieszo tą dróżką, którą biegnie wzdłuż wybrzeża. Na pewno nie pożałujecie.. widoki są obłędne! No to jedziemy dalej.. a dalej pustkowie, tylko gdzieniegdzie jakiś domek, jakieś nowo budowane osiedle, a tak tylko pola, drzewa, plaże, skały i morze.. Po kolejnej chwili docieramy do następnej plaży, bardzo kameralnej i niewielkiej Ammos Kambouri Beach. To był już listopad, więc nie spotkałam tutaj ani jednego plażowicza, my również nie robiliśmy tutaj długiego przystanku, ale na pewno warto tutaj przyjechać latem – widać, że coś się tutaj pewnie dzieje, bo stał zamknięty Stekkis Snack Bar, obok był pomnik z 2017r ‘Leda and the Swan’, jakaś łódka, zadbane z nasadzeniami nadbrzeże, ładna plaża, tuż obok osiedle niewielkich domków i miejsce dokarmiania kotów, jedno z wielu na wyspie. Akurat chyba byliśmy w porze ich karmienia, bo było ich tutaj może z 40 albo i więcej i wszystkie akurat spożywały posiłek.. Jadąc tą ścieżką zauważyłam wiele miejsc z rozstawionymi miseczkami.

Oczywiście w międzyczasie zwiedziliśmy też na rowerach całe miasteczko Ayia Napa – bez mapy, po prostu jadąc przed siebie. Nie powiem.. czasami było bardzo stromo! Czasami nawet w dół prowadziłam rower, ze względu na te stromizny, nie mówiąc o prowadzeniu go pod górkę. Wiele miejsc było o tej porze roku już zamkniętych, co wcale nam nie przeszkadzało, ale wróćmy do naszej ścieżki..

Jedziemy dalej na wschód. I znowu bardzo długo nie ma nic, tylko wiatr we włosach, szum fal i przepiękny widok na morze. W końcu docieramy do kolejnej plaży.. jej widok zachwycił mnie! Dosłownie! Mikrusia, malutka, na którą trzeba zejść lekko w dół, otoczona z każdej strony skałami i niestety płotem z siatki.. być może zabezpieczające przed spadającymi kamykami i żeby tam nie wchodzić.. naprawdę miejsce cudeńko! Bardzo chciałam tutaj popluskać się w wodzie, ale byliśmy tu już prawie o zachodzie słońca – całą trasę opisuję po kolei od jej zachodniego wybrzeża, natomiast my jeździliśmy sobie w różne strony i o różnych porach dniach i akurat jednego dnia będąc tutaj zobaczyliśmy to cudeńko. Na mapach Google jest ona zaznaczona jako dzika plaża, ale to ponoć Petrini Koghi Beach – jak będziecie w okolicy to koniecznie przyjedźcie tutaj. Obok widać nowiutkie osiedle domków.. ale nie zauważyłam ani jednego mieszkańca.

No i jedziemy dalej, mijamy parking i znowu długo nic. Tutaj już nawet na tej ścieżce nikogo nie spotkaliśmy. Pusto. Spacerujący turyści z Ayia Napa pewnie pieszo nie zaciągają się tak daleko, dlatego znowu podkreślę, że wybór roweru jako środka transportu, to była bardzo dobra decyzja, samochodem ani quadem tutaj się jechać nie dałoby. Ta ścieżka nie dość, że momentami bardzo wąska, to jeszcze często kończy się ot tak, są na niej schodki, a do tego wyłożona jest kamieniami i w wielu miejscach jest brak fug.. często rower trzeba było przeprowadzić, co w żadnym stopniu nie było uciążliwe. Pola, pola, pola.. morze i my. Tak sobie jadąc słyszy się przeróżne dźwięki dochodzące z różnych stron..

W końcu dojechaliśmy do kolejnej plaży Limnara Beach – tu również rower trzeba było kawałek przeprowadzić – nad brzegiem rozciągały się kompleksy hoteli, miejsce zdecydowanie dla osób, które potrzebują ciszy i spokoju.. tutaj na pewno to znajdą. Rozłożone leżaki i parasole i dość sporo ludzi na plaży. W głębi za hotelem duże osiedle domków i prawie wszystkie z własnymi basenami.

W tym miejscu jeżeli jechalibyście samochodem ulicą Kryou Nerou to ona się kończy i zaczyna się Kavo Gkreko, skręcając w lewo wrócimy do Ayia Napa, a skręcając w prawo dojedziemy wprost do Cape Greco National Forest Park. Niestety nasza piękna ścieżka kończyła się za Limnara Beach w okolicy Rocky Bay, ale mocno uparci dojadą do jaskiń, klifów i morskich grot Sea Caves gdzie można skakać z klifów prosto do wody. A potem.. potem rozciąga się już przepiękne Cape Greco.. i od plaży Limnara Beach nie ma już żadnych zabudowań.

Polecam bardzo przejażdżkę E4 European Long Distance Path, czyli europejską ścieżką długodystansową – dojedziecie nią praktycznie aż do samiutkiej latarni, mijając jeszcze Monument of Peace, Blue Holes, możecie pokąpać się w Blue Lagoon, przejechać obok British Radar Station aż do Lighthouse in Cape Greco. Wracając inną trasą możecie zwiedzić mały kościółek Agioi Anargiroi i dalej przez Konnos Beach dojedziecie do jaskini Cyklopa (Cyclops Cave). Jeżeli wycieczka w jedną stronę Was zmęczy, to myślę, że spokojnie, za odpowiednią opłatą, będziecie mogli wrócić autobusem do Ayia Napa z Protaras.

Zanim zakończę ten opis naszej podróży na Cypr, to dodam jeszcze kilka zdjęć zrobionych w międzyczasie.. czasami nie potrzebujemy opisów, aby zaspokoić nasze zmysły.. wzroku.. węchu.. smaku.. dotyku.. a sami zobaczcie jaki cudowny jest Cypr, a przynajmniej ten jego kawałek, który zwiedziłam..

To był cudowny tydzień.. i chętnie go powtórzę, choćby nawet w tym samym miejscu. Mimo, że tym razem nigdzie nie pędziliśmy, praktycznie zwiedziliśmy tylko Ayia Napa i najbliższe okolice, to wiem, że kiedyś tu wrócimy. Gdy to wszystko piszę mam przed oczami nie tylko tamtejsze krajobrazy, ale słyszę dźwięki i widzę to, co zobaczyłam. Taki miał być ten wyjazd.. spokojny.. i taki był. Czasami potrzebujemy spokoju, a jeżeli nie znajdziemy go w sobie, to nie znajdziemy go nigdzie..

A jeżeli mój artykuł spodobał Ci się, to będzie mi bardzo miło, jak postawisz mi kawę -> uwielbiam kawę! A zgromadzone środki przeznaczę na pewno na dalsze rozwijanie swojej wiedzy, na pomaganie i wspieranie innych oraz na czas, który przeznaczam na tworzenie mojego bloga.. i z góry bardzo Ci dziękuję za tą pyszną kawę………..

Postaw mi kawę na buycoffee.to

468 Komentarze

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